Soap and water, polish, wax or what? Take the guesswork out of cleaning wood floors and go from dull and grimy to gleaming and gorgeous in a few easy steps.

Hardwood4us offer 3 kinds of finishes:

• Polyurethane floors:
• Penetrating-seal-treated and oil-treated floors:
• Lacquered, varnished, shellacked and untreated floors:

Not sure what kind of finish you have? To tell the difference in a pinch, just rub your finger across the floor. If no smudge appears, the floor is surface sealed. If you do create a smudge, the floor has been treated with a penetrating seal, oil finish, shellac, varnish or lacquer, and then waxed.

Cleaning Polyurethane Floors

Most new wood floors are sealed with urethane/ polyurethane or polyacrylic. Surface-sealed-polyurethaned floors are stain and water-damage resistant and easiest to care for and clean: Sweep, mop and you're done!

Product Do's and Don'ts

Don't use oils, waxes or furniture sprays. Oil leaves a residue, furniture spray creates a slippery surface (think ice-skating rink!) and wax takes time to apply and makes recoating difficult. Don't use straight ammonia, alkaline products or abrasive cleaners. They'll dull or scratch the finish.

Routine Cleaning

In high-traffic areas, like the dining room and kitchen, you should sweep daily, if possible, and mop once or twice a week. Mop less-trafficked areas once a month or once a season.

Mopping Technique

Remember: Water is wood's worst enemy (even on sealed floors!), so use a damp mop rather than a soaking wet one. Dip the mop into the bucket of prepared cleaning solution, wring it out completely, mop in the direction of the wood grain and repeat. When the water gets dirty, empty the bucket, mix a new batch of cleaning solution and continue mopping. When finished, go back over the entire surface with clean water to rinse. Don't be afraid to get on your hands and knees if necessary. When a floor needs serious attention, I clean it with a cloth. (It's better than a sponge because you can "feel" the dirt as you wipe!)

Tackling Simple Wood Floor Problems

Scuff marks getting you down? A bit of baking soda on a damp sponge will erase them. Noticed a stubborn food, water or grease stain on your surface-sealed-polyurethaned floors? Always use a commercial cleaner to treat this problem. Hairline cracks in the floor? Don't panic and attempt to fill them. Dry heat during the winter months causes wood floors to shrink and crack. Cracks should close up during the summer (though using a humidifier can also help). Finish looking dull? Call us to sand the floor lightly and recoat with an additional layer or two. Recoating is necessary about every five to seven years.

Cleaning Penetrating-Seal-Treated, Oil-Treated, Shellacked, Varnished, Lacquered or Untreated Floors

Also common, a penetrating seal or oil finish soaks into the wood grain and hardens. This type of floor must be pampered and protected with liquid or paste wax. Although technically surface finishes, lacquers, varnishes and shellacs are not as resistant to moisture, spills and wear as the other sealants mentioned. Treat floors with these finishes and floors with no finish as you would penetrating-seal-treated and oil-treated floors.

Product Do's and Don'ts

Do use stripper to remove old wax buildup. Choose a product the floor manufacturer recommends, a commercial product from the hardware store or mineral spirits. Do use liquid wax designed for wood floors or paste wax. Liquid wax is easier to apply but leaves a thinner coat (and provides less protection) than paste wax. Don't use acrylic or water-based waxes, furniture waxes or one-step waxes. Acrylic and water-based waxes can turn floors white, furniture wax creates a slick surface and one-step waxes (despite the compelling pitches: They clean! They remove old wax! They lay down new wax!) can trap dirt.  

Routine Cleaning

Do NOT damp-mop waxed floors. Just vacuum and sweep the surface regularly. Once or twice a year, strip the old wax and apply a fresh new coat. If a high-traffic area gets dull in between treatments, you can spot-wax the area.

Waxing Technique

Vacuum the floor to remove dust. Strip the old wax with stripper (following the manufacturer's instructions) or mineral spirits (rub into wood and then wipe off with a clean, soft cloth). Keep the area well ventilated as you work and as the floor dries. After the floor has dried, apply a thin coat of wax, using an applicator (if you're using liquid wax) or a cloth (if you're using paste wax). Let the wax dry. For added protection, apply a second coat of wax. Finally, buff. Use a cloth or, to make the job easier, rent a buffing machine. Remember to always buff in the direction of the wood grain.

Tackling Simple Wood Floor Problems

White water spots marring your floor's finish? Add a small amount of mineral spirits to an extra-fine (0000) steel wool pad and gently rub the area in a circular motion. Keep the area well ventilated as you work. Got heel marks that won't wipe off? Add a small amount of wax to an extra-fine (0000) steel wool pad and gently rub the area in a circular motion. Food stains causing you trouble? Wipe the surface with a damp cloth, rub dry and wax. When removing any stain (from wood or carpet), always work from the outside edge in toward the center.